Inside Sahagún’s Food Industry: Tradition Meets Innovation

Here’s something surprising – fermented foods make up between 5% to 40% of all food people eat worldwide. These foods have many fermented drinks that communities have relied on for centuries. These traditional beverages help people maintain healthy weight and boost their immune system.

You might know some fermented drinks available today, but their history tells an amazing story about ancient food practices. The Florentine Codex, written by Bernardino de Sahagún in the 16th century, is a vital historical document that connects indigenous and European cooking traditions. Food and energy needs keep growing – experts expect them to double by 2050. 

Learning about these traditional fermented foods and how to make them could help create green food solutions.

This piece shows how Sahagún’s detailed records of indigenous food practices shape modern culinary breakthroughs, especially when it comes to traditional fermented drinks and their modern versions.

Sahagún’s Mission: Documenting Indigenous Food Traditions

A Franciscan friar named Bernardino de Sahagún started one of history’s most remarkable ethnographic studies in the 16th century. He arrived in Mexico in 1529, just eight years after the Spanish conquest. 

His detailed documentation of the Nahua culture set him apart from other European observers of his time. His masterwork, known today as the Florentine Codex, stands as an unmatched record of indigenous Mexican traditions and their sophisticated food culture.

The Florentine Codex as a culinary encyclopedia

The Florentine Codex—formally titled Historia general de las cosas de Nueva España (General History of the Things of New Spain)—has twelve books with parallel columns of Nahuatl and Spanish text. Nearly 2,500 hand-painted images beautifully illustrate the text. Scholars completed this encyclopedic work in 1577 at the Imperial Colegio de la Santa Cruz in Tlatelolco. 

It gives us the most complete account of Aztec cuisine available today. Food historians say that “because of Sahagun’s all-encompassing curiosity and the diligence of his Aztec students and informants, we know more about the repertory of Aztec cuisine than we do about all but the most recent and most literate societies.”

Book X of the Codex extensively explores Aztec society and has detailed sections about food and drink. Sahagún carefully documents how nobles prepared chocolate from cacao beans—a luxury beverage they kept exclusively for themselves. 

The Nahua society considered it their greatest delicacy. The Codex shows that Aztec cuisine centered around corn, beans, and squash. They added chilis, nopales, and tomatoes—ingredients that are still the foundations of Mexican cooking today.

Sahagún’s work gives us great insights about traditional fermented beverages. The Aztecs made many alcoholic drinks from fermented maize, honey, pineapple, cactus fruit, and other plants. Octli (pulque), made from maguey sap, was the most common drink. The elite preferred drinks made from cacao, which they often flavored with chili peppers, honey, and various spices.

Nahua food practices through European eyes

Sahagún took a systematic approach to documenting indigenous foodways, which was unusual for his time. He didn’t just observe from a distance like his peers. Instead, he used careful ethnographic methods and asked Nahua elders who were experts in their culture. He worked with more than a dozen Aztec doctors who dictated and edited the material about medicinal plants and foods.

The friar’s documentation about food preparation was particularly detailed. He described how people mainly cooked by boiling or steaming in two-handled clay pots called xoctli in Nahuatl. Tortillas, tamales, and various sauces were central to everyday meals. The Codex describes many types of tamales—stuffed with fruits, game meat, or seafood. They typically put whole chile pods in the filling.

Sahagún captured the ceremonial side of Aztec dining too. His descriptions of feasts show elaborate rituals. Guests would receive fragrant tobacco tubes and flowers before meals. Each person would drop a small amount of food on the ground as an offering to the god Tlaltecuhtli. These details help us understand the cultural meaning behind their meals.

Preserving knowledge amid cultural change

Mexico’s first archbishop, Fray Juan de Zumárraga, was burning Nahua codices in the 1550s when Sahagún did much of his research. His work became vital to preserve indigenous knowledge that could have vanished forever.

The friar had mixed motivations. As a missionary, he wanted to understand indigenous beliefs to convert the Nahua people to Christianity. Yet he truly admired many aspects of their culture. He wrote that they were “perfect philosophers and astrologers, and very capable in all the mechanical arts of defense.” This respect drove him to preserve cultural knowledge even as others tried to erase it.

Devastating epidemics in 1545 and 1576 made Sahagún’s work even more important as they wiped out indigenous populations. During the 1545 outbreak, he became very sick after burying 10,000 victims himself. These catastrophes disrupted indigenous food systems and how people passed down knowledge. The Codex preserved culinary traditions that might have disappeared completely.

Sahagún’s lasting impact comes from his detailed preservation of traditional fermented foods and preparation techniques. His documentation helps us understand not just what the Nahua ate but how food fits into their cultural worldview. They believed maize was tonacatl or “our flesh”—essentially the same substance as humans in different forms. This deep cultural context gives us richer insights into indigenous foodways beyond simple recipes.

Traditional Ingredients in Pre-Hispanic Mexican Cuisine

Pre-Hispanic Mexican cuisine built its foundations on ingredients that went beyond mere sustenance. These ingredients carried deep cultural and spiritual meaning. Scientists have found evidence that people started growing these staples thousands of years ago. 

Some plants were first domesticated around 7000 BCE in Mesoamerica. These native ingredients created complex food systems that brought together nutrition, eco-friendly practices, and cultural identity.

Staple crops and their cultural significance

Corn, beans, and chili peppers formed the sacred trio at the core of pre-Hispanic Mexican cuisine. Corn held exceptional spiritual value to the Maya people. They believed humans came from the corn itself. Maya’s parents showed this belief by shaping their babies’ heads to look like corn ears. The Aztecs shared a similar view, calling corn tonacatl or “our flesh.” They saw it as the same substance as humans, just in a different form.

Beans worked with corn to create a complete nutritional package. The people developed a clever process called nixtamalization. They soaked corn in an alkaline solution before grinding it. This process boosted the corn’s nutritional value by letting the body absorb niacin and other nutrients. Without this crucial step, people who eat mostly corn would face serious health problems.

Amaranth and chia proved to be protein powerhouses. Amaranth packed an impressive 16% protein by weight—more than wheat (13%) or rice (7%). People valued these plants so much that they used their seeds in religious ceremonies. Amaranth became particularly vital since most people in Mesoamerica ate plant-based diets. Only the elite had regular access to meat.

Wild foods and their seasonal importance

The pre-Hispanic diet included many wild foods that changed with the seasons. People have gathered edible wild mushrooms from Mexican forests since ancient times. These mushrooms typically appear in July and August. Forest communities preserved their knowledge about finding and preparing mushrooms. Some mushroom varieties became essential parts of ceremonial meals.

Huitlacoche (corn fungus) stands out among these foods. It offers a unique mix of flavors—acidic, astringent, earthy, bitter, and umami. This delicacy packs plenty of protein, dietary fiber, fatty acids, minerals, and vitamins. The pre-Hispanic diet also included about 200 different edible insects. These insects provided protein levels from 10% to an amazing 80%. The Maya thought grasshoppers (chapulines) were divine gifts.

People hunted wild game based on natural cycles. They caught deer, peccary, rabbit, armadillo, and various waterfowl when these animals were plentiful. Archeological discoveries show these protein sources helped communities that had few domesticated animals. The Aztecs only had five: turkey, duck, dog, bee, and the cochineal insect.

Medicinal plants in the daily diet

Food and medicine often meant the same thing in pre-Hispanic cuisine. Mexico’s varied landscapes—from jungles to mountains and coasts—support about 4,500 plant species. Over 52 different ethnic groups use these plants for cooking and healing. Today, 90-92% of Mexicans still know and use traditional healing plants.

Chili peppers show how food and medicine work together. People valued them for their taste and their power to treat dental problems, ear infections, wounds, and stomach issues. Cacao held similar importance. The Aztecs saw cacao pods as symbols of the human heart. These beans were so valuable that people used them as money.

Traditional healers added many herbs to daily meals. Evidence shows people ate plant-based remedies to prevent illness. Modern science keeps proving these traditional practices right. Research on Hibiscus sabdariffa and Ibervillea sonorae shows they help prevent weight gain and control blood sugar safely.

The pre-Hispanic people also created many fermented drinks. These beverages served both nutritional and ceremonial purposes. They offer proof of the sophisticated food knowledge that thrived in pre-Hispanic Mexico.

Ancient Cooking Techniques Preserved in Sahagún’s Records

Sahagún’s detailed records show sophisticated cooking techniques that are the foundations of Mesoamerican cuisine from a time before modern kitchen appliances. His documentation saved knowledge of traditional preparation methods that could have vanished during the cultural changes after European contact.

Earth oven cooking methods

Ancient earth oven cooking appears throughout Sahagún’s records as a technique people still cherish in Mexico today. These underground cooking pits—known as “pibs” in Mayan culture—go back thousands of years. 

People found the earliest earth ovens in Central Europe dating to 29,000 BC. The simple structure needs a ground pit where wood creates a fire to heat stones. The wood burns down to embers, then food—wrapped in leaves—goes inside, covered with vegetation for moisture, and buried with earth to keep heat in.

These cooking methods stand out because they work for everything. Small pits cook corn and tamales in under an hour, while larger ones handle meats like cochinita pibil or barbacoa overnight. The method creates unique smoky flavors that modern appliances can’t match. As chef David Cetina noted, “The wood we cook it in, the leaves we top it with, the earth it’s buried in—those things give the flavor. The best machine in the world can’t give the flavor of food cooked underground”.

Stone grinding and nixtamalization

The most important techniques Sahagún documented included nixtamalization—a process named from the Nahuatl words nextli (lime ashes) and tamalli (corn dough). Mesoamericans developed this groundbreaking method between 1200 and 1500 BCE. The process soaks and cooks maize in an alkaline solution, usually limewater.

Nixtamalization changes corn in vital ways: it loosens the outer hull (pericarp), releases proteins and nutrients for the body, and helps form the dough for tortillas and tamales. People who ate mainly corn without nixtamalization faced pellagra and other nutritional problems—European settlers learned this the hard way when they used corn without this process.

The grinding tools played an equally vital role. The metate—a stone grinding slab with three legs—appears often in pre-Hispanic codices. Aztec culture valued it so much that they buried a girl’s umbilical cord beneath it. Sahagún wrote that “one of the first sounds to be heard in Aztec houses, often before dawn, was the ‘dull rumble’ of the rolling pin (mano) on the stone, as the mother prepared maize dough for tortillas.”

Preservation techniques in a pre-refrigeration era

Mesoamerican societies created clever ways to keep food fresh before refrigeration existed. They lacked vinegar (which comes from wine or cider fermentation, absent in pre-Hispanic Mexico). All the same, they made fermented drinks like pulque that served both nutritional and ceremonial purposes.

Sahagún documented slow-cooking techniques that helped preserve meat longer. Tamales—wrapped in banana or corn husks—worked as both food and packaging that kept contents fresh for days. Underground cooking served two purposes: it made tough meats tender while helping them last longer.

Their handling of seasonal foods through drying techniques stands out. Sahagún’s records tell how people sun-dried mushrooms, fruits, and even meats to store for harder times. These ancient preservation methods prove they understood food chemistry centuries before science explained it. This highlights the sophistication of Mesoamerican food systems that Sahagún carefully documented.

The Evolution of Traditional Fermented Beverages

Traditional fermented beverages in Mexico showcase ancient knowledge systems that went through remarkable changes over centuries. These drinks, created through carefully coordinated microbial activity, tell a compelling story of cultural resilience and adaptation that persisted through colonial pressures and modernization.

Pulque: from sacred drink to modern revival

Pulque maintained its sacred status among Mesoamerican cultures for centuries. The Aztecs considered it “the Drink of the Gods” or centzontotochin—literally “400 rabbits,” which referred to the different personalities people might show under its influence. The original consumption had strict controls, and only priests, elders, warriors, and women who had recently given birth could drink it. Moctezuma sent jugs of pulque with gold and jade as tributes to greet Hernán Cortés.

Spanish colonization changed pulque’s sacred nature completely. The Spanish made its sale more open to control indigenous populations and support colonial government operations. Historian Fernando Benítez observed how it changed from “the Drink of the Gods” to “the Drink of the Vanquished”. This new status didn’t stop pulque from becoming economically vital—it generated 28% of all federal tax revenue in Mexico by the late 19th century.

Pulque’s popularity declined in the 20th century as modernization linked it to poverty and backwardness. Beer companies attacked Pulque’s reputation by spreading stories about unclean production methods. Pulque consumption dropped sharply until young Mexicans started reclaiming it as a symbol of cultural resistance and tradition.

Tepache and other fruit fermentations

Tepache’s name comes from the Nahuatl words tepachoa (“pressed or ground with a stone”) and tepiātl (“drink of corn”), and it started as a fermented corn drink. The pineapple became the main ingredient as its cultivation spread through trade routes between tribes in Central and South America.

People make tepache by mixing pineapple skins and cores with piloncillo (raw cane sugar), cinnamon sticks, and water. Wild bacteria and yeast naturally present on the fruit’s skin create a unique fermentation profile, unlike commercial products. The drink ferments for three days in wooden barrels called “tepacheras,” resulting in a beverage with 0.5-2% alcohol content.

Mexico’s traditional fermented beverages go beyond tepache and pulque. Researchers have found at least 66 types throughout Mexico, and many combine agave sap with various fruits. Other notable traditional fermentations include colonche (from cactus fruits), nawait (from giant saguaro cactus), tuba and taberna (from palm sap), and balché (a sacred Mayan drink).

The social context of fermented drink consumption

Mexican society gave fermented beverages distinct social roles throughout history. The Aztecs connected pulque with Mayahuel, the goddess of fertility who embodied the agave plant and used it mainly in rituals. This ceremonial importance shifted toward everyday drinking after Spanish colonization.

Pulquerías (pulque taverns) became essential social spaces by the late 19th century. Mexico City had more than 1,000 pulquerías, ranging from simple country spots to elegant urban establishments that proudly offered “Pulque Fino de Apan” (Fine Pulque from Apan). These places encouraged community bonds through daily consumption and annual celebrations.

Fermented beverages continue to evolve in Mexico’s social fabric. Young, urban consumers have brought pulque back to popularity, seeing it as a symbol of cultural resistance and tradition. This heritage faces new challenges as companies try to market these beverages internationally.

From Historical Documentation to Modern Restaurant Kitchens

Modern Mexican chefs look to Sahagún’s historical records as culinary inspiration. Their work sparks a renaissance in indigenous food traditions that connects centuries of gastronomic knowledge. This movement represents more than just a trend – it marks a cultural reclamation of Mexico’s rich culinary heritage.

Chef-led movements to reclaim Indigenous ingredients

Mexico’s food world changed when chefs discovered the value of Sahagún’s careful documentation. These culinary innovators saw indigenous ingredients not as relics but as vital parts of a living tradition. A group of creative chefs in Mexico City works to bring back the country’s genetic diversity and pre-industrial foodways. Their approach mirrors how Alice Waters revolutionized fine dining with farm-to-table principles in the United States.

Several chefs source ingredients from Xochimilco, an area of Mexico City that still resembles the ancient landscape before Spanish colonization. They work with farmers who use chinampas—traditional man-made farming islands. These farmers practice age-old techniques that create rich, nutrient-dense soil. Upscale menus now feature these ingredients, letting diners taste flavors that have existed in Mexico for thousands of years.

Reinterpreting ancient techniques for contemporary palates

This culinary movement stands out because it treats tradition as a living practice that grows and changes. Mexican gastronomy today blends traditional cooking practices with new ideas. Chefs apply modern techniques to traditional fermented drinks and foods while preserving their cultural meaning.

Take alegrías—Mexico’s oldest candy, according to Ricardo Muñoz Zurita. These treats have adapted through centuries. Pre-Hispanic people sweetened them with maguey cactus syrup and shaped them for religious ceremonies. After the Spanish arrival, cooks started using honey instead. This shows how natural changes continue in today’s kitchens.

Modern cuisine offers fresh takes on classic favorites with new twists that keep their cultural heart. Note that the simple tools and techniques for preparing Mexican staples remain largely unchanged. This balance between new ideas and tradition creates food that honors its roots while looking ahead—much like Sahagún’s work preserved knowledge during cultural shifts.

Sustainability Lessons from Traditional Food Systems

Ancient farming wisdom gives us powerful solutions to today’s environmental challenges. Mexican traditional food systems evolved over thousands of years and gave us a practical explanation of eco-friendly living that modern society is starting to value.

Seasonal eating patterns

Pre-Hispanic cultures based their eating around nature’s cycles instead of forcing year-round production. Traditional diets across Mexico feature seasonal fruits and vegetables. People enjoy mangos and papayas in summer months while wild mushrooms show up mainly in July and August. These seasonal patterns give the best taste and naturally line up with local ecosystems. 

Women from small mountain towns still hunt for morels, chanterelles, and lobster mushrooms. They bring this seasonal treasure to local markets. Traditional cultures created food systems that needed fewer outside resources and put less strain on the environment by respecting nature’s rhythm.

Waste reduction practices

Traditional Mexican cooking showed circular economy principles long before the idea became popular. Latin cuisine makes sure every edible part of plants and animals has a purpose, which cuts down food waste directly. Meat bones become the foundation for nutrient-rich broths. 

Vegetable scraps turn into flavorful sofrito bases. Preservation methods like fermentation make food last longer. Fermented drinks fit into this system, too—pulque production uses agave plants that might go unused otherwise. This all-encompassing approach to resources explains why pre-Hispanic waste reduction methods appear in the World Resources Institute’s “menu of solutions” for future food challenges.

Biodiversity preservation through traditional agriculture

The milpa system stands as one of history’s most successful eco-friendly farming models after thousands of years. This mixed-crop method puts maize in the upper canopy, nitrogen-fixing beans in the middle, and squash at ground level. 

Nature handles pest control, and soil stays healthy. Research using Land Equivalency Ratio measurements shows these mixed fields produce 40-50% more than single-crop fields. Chinampas—artificial farming islands built in shallow lakes—take innovation further. Experts call them the most productive form of agriculture that ever spread, yielding four to seven harvests each year. These ancient systems keep extraordinary biodiversity while producing plenty of food.

Conclusion

Sahagún’s detailed records of traditional Mexican food practices teach us amazing lessons about modern cooking and sustainability. These age-old methods showcase a deep knowledge of nutrition, food preservation, and ecological balance that still makes sense today.

Mexican food systems prove you don’t have to choose between green practices and great flavor. Ancient cooking techniques like nixtamalization and earth oven cooking boosted both nutritional value and taste. Fermented drinks like pulque brought people together and created lasting cultural bonds.

Today’s Mexican chefs blend the old with the new. They take historical ingredients and techniques into modern kitchens. This keeps indigenous food traditions alive while creating new dishes that celebrate Mexico’s rich food heritage. Traditional farming methods like milpa and chinampas are a great way to tackle today’s environmental issues. They show how ancient wisdom helps solve modern food security problems.

These traditional practices matter more as the world just needs more food. Mexican food traditions are proof that green, healthy, and tasty cooking methods have been around for centuries – ready to be used in today’s world.